KZN Table Mountain (Pmburg area) HIKE
- 27th OCTOBER 2013
The meeting place was the local school grounds, where a
combination of 31 hikers from Mountain Backpackers, PMB Ramblers & DBN
Ramblers clubs parked our vehicles within the securely fenced area of the
school grounds with two car guards in attendance. On hand to meet us was Ambrose
our guide for the day. Fortunately we did not take the weather forecast seriously,
even after experiencing heavy down-pours of rain whilst travelling to our
destination. Upon arrival the weather conditions started to clear, and with the
promise of good conditions we started off along an easy route to the summit at
a reasonably steady pace.
Ambrose was a wealth of information explaining that the
people live under an Inkosi or chief who administers and retains the customs
and traditions of their cultural group. Houses
and thatched huts some painted in various bright colours with satellite aerials,
cattle, goats, and chickens being kept by many families, are a feature of this
landscape. Nowadays all is peaceful with tribes living comfortably side by side.
The problems today are of a social rather than a political nature, as they were
during the troubled late 1980s when faction fights and political intolerance
between Inkatha and ANC took place. 
Grasslands cover most of the flat topped plateau and support
a fascinating and diverse flora. Growing among the rock outcrops along the edge
of the escarpment, protected from wind and fire, are miniature gardens of moss,
lichens, succulents and terrestrial orchids. All these are able to survive by
obtaining moisture from the regular mists and rain. The dark clefts fall sheer
into the valleys below with gorges and overhanging precipice with deep clefts and
chasms, which have been carved out by wind and water and are worth further exploration.
An ancient Glacial Pavement was of
great interest, as were the sunken forest and a number of large depressions and
sinkholes. A stream which disappears into the ground and then
reappears as a waterfall in a shaded moss and fern grotto was of particular
interest as the name KOGH 1909 was deeply caved into the rock next to the
waterfall. One wonders if this name could be the same white man who built a
house in this area and then mysteriously disappeared along with the house that
he built. Ambrose said that not even a solitary brick was ever found!
The panoramic spectacular views to the east requires quite
an effort to take in the whole scene at once with the Msunduze and Umgeni
Rivers making there tortuous way through the valley of a thousand hills to
empty into the Indian Ocean at the Blue Lagoon. Whilst the view to the north overlooks
the picturesque Nagle Dam which impounds the waters of the Umgeni River and
contributes most of Durban’s water supply.
As we approached our lunch stop, we caught up with the herd
of Nguni cattle which had been a dim smudge on the horizon earlier on. These
cattle are regarded by the Zulu as very intimate and personal belongings. This
magnificent healthy looking herd with their multi-colours and various patterned
hides must be the pride of the local Inkosi. In their culture it is considered
improper to count cattle, so the umfaan herder knows each of the cows by sight
and name. The cattle are named by the colour and pattern of their hides, the
shape of the horns also gives rise to some beautiful descriptive names, they
can also frequently be named after significant occurrences that have taken
place within the community, their names can be regarded as a [walking history].
After a relaxed lunch we headed off in an easterly direction
with a splendid picturesque view of Nagle Dam with a background of innumerable
hills and valleys in the distance.
Passing a fenced off
section which Ambrose explained was an experimental area where a number of
indigenous tree species are being successfully cultivated to form a wind
barrier as well as a shade area for the cattle once the trees are fully grown. The route now climbs over a hill and
approaches a rock strewn ridge which at first was comfortably wide. With the
dense mist settling in, the ridge narrowed down to about 2 metres wide with
deep exposures on either side and then abruptly ends. As we had now circumnavigated the top of
Table Mountain and accomplished our objective, we then turned back and headed
through the curtain of mist to connect with the path that would take us back
down to the school.
Duncan and Francois had done an excellent job of leading, organizing as well as arranging security. I personally was impressed and appreciative of Ambrose’s input and information and departed with many pleasant memories from this highly recommended hike.
Duncan and Francois had done an excellent job of leading, organizing as well as arranging security. I personally was impressed and appreciative of Ambrose’s input and information and departed with many pleasant memories from this highly recommended hike.
David Tighe
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