Kamberg Day hike 2^nd August 2014

A day hike in the Berg is essentially a light hearted and leisurely occupation—a combination of exercise, a breath of fresh mountain air and a chance to commune with the beauties of nature.     This world heritage site, has outstanding scenery, geological features and magnificently sculpted basalt cliffs.  Beneath them are the light-coloured cave sandstone forming undulating plateau’s, with sweeping grasslands, brilliantly green in summer, pastel and yellow in winter which adds to this spectacular scene. Krantzes or cliffs run under the summit in the little berg, and in these sandstone layers hundreds of rock shelters and overhangs are to be found. In these shelters San hunter- gatherers made their homes and the richest concentration of rock paintings in the world are to be found. Some of the paintings are well protected and well preserved and are of exceptional quality, especially those in Game Pass Shelter. However these shelters are still eroding, this is partly due to moisture in the rock, and to a lesser extent to sudden temperature changes. This means that the great wealth of rock art in them will eventually disappear entirely. While time and nature will continue to take their toll, the deterioration of many paintings during the last hundred or so years has been caused mainly by humans. Therefore visitors must always be accompanied by an accredited Amafa Rock Art Custodian when entering into an area within 50m of any rock art site in the province of kwa-Zulu Natal.   All the above makes up an enjoyable, interesting and rewarding visit to the Berg.

Philip, Clive and myself had made an early start from Durban and arrived at the Kamberg reserve to meet up with Rose, Cheryl, Gordon, Max, Neville, Erica, Fiona, Rob and Tony; some had overnighted at Mountain Shadows and all were keen to get going. As we climbed up to the plateau below Game Pass Shelter we were rewarded with the sighting of between forty or fifty (what I identified?) as Jackal Buzzards. Few sights could be more impressive then these birds soaring high overhead.

The exceptionally dry winter was evident at our first stop at the Obathwa shelter, the normal curtain of water flowing over the lip of the shelter was now just a trickle. The route starts to rise and rapidly gains altitude for the next few hundred metres, after which it contours around a game track to a stream crossing. From here on the scenery is outstanding with numerous waterfalls cascading into delightful pools and with impressive massive rock formation towering above. We scrambled up to Christmas cave which is situated high up in the sandstone band. The paintings in this shelter are mainly painted on the roof, there was much debate as to the reason for this. 

 At this point two members of our group felt that they had gone far enough, I then made arrangements for Philip to accompany them back to a recognised point and for them to wait there for our return. Philip would then meet up with the rest of the party at Willem 1 & 2 caves. I lead the rest of the group over the top and arrived at the caves and met Philip who greeted us with the disturbing and concerning news that one of them had disappeared. I must emphasize that as a leader I assume responsibility for the safety of each member of the group. This disappearing act was extremely unnecessary and irresponsible on the part of this hiker and could have had serious consequences.

The paintings of a group of Eland on the wall of Willem2 cave were still well preserved and well worth the effort it took to traverse over from Willem1.

After picking up Gordon, who had been waiting patiently at the arranged site, we set off back to the car park which was mostly downhill, we arrived back pleasantly tired, rejuvenated and relieved to find that the lost soul had made his way safely back to camp and had not ended up in cyber space on Planet Apple!! 

DAVID TIGHE

MANGROVE SWAMPS – BAYHEAD : 23^RD MARCH 2014

 10 Club members & 6 visitors met at Glenwood Centre & proceeded to Bayhead.  These swamps are situated at the southern end of Durban harbour & because of their scientific, educational & historical value, they were proclaimed a national heritage site in 1996. The Bayhead Mangrove swamps covers a mere 10ha, this forest previously stretched to over 100ha. These plants require warm, humid tropical conditions & grow only on selected shores in river estuaries, bays & lagoons where salt water penetrates.  They also require a certain balance of fresh water provided by rain and rivers.  The Mangrove environment is extremely fragile & liable to destruction by environmentally unfriendly land use practices & economic developments.

Our route took us along a boardwalk which is raised on stilts & wanders through the Mangrove forest  for a good 100m where one has the opportunity to experience the ‘real feel’ of the swamp & observe the three Mangrove species that grow in this saline condition that would kill most plants. Because of the low oxygen content of the salt water strangely shaped roots are produced.

Besides being interesting from a botanical viewpoint a Mangrove forest also has a unique animal life including oysters which live on the prop roots & snails that climb up and down the trunks with the rise and fall of the tides. Mud Skippers - a fish which can live out of water & propel themselves along the mud with their flippers. Male Fiddler crabs wave colourful nippers to attract a mate. Sesama crabs collect fallen leaves. Juvenile prawns & marine fish swim into the swamp at high tide where there is plenty of food & a safe nursery away from the turbulent sea.

We left the boardwalk and skirted the fringe of the swamp with the tide receding & headed to the bird hide for a short break. It was a pleasure having amongst our visitors, Jocelyn Sutherland - custodian of the Hawaan forest at Umhlanga, Jill Seldon who holds a Saturday outing for tree identification. Also Bertha Pitout who is a lecturer at DUT & who has given talks in Sweden on the Durban Zanzibaries. All are keen birders.

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The 2km walk along the beach produced a good variety of birds & much to discuss as Rose, Ismail, Ingrid, Lee & Jon also have a good knowledge of birds. Amongst the variety of birds sighted were: Mangrove Kingfisher with its loud ringing call, the gregarious Sacred Ibis, Cormorant’s, Egrets, Fish Eagle, Egyptian Geese, Herons & Cranes, Hamerkop & Plovers.

As we had reached the end of the beach we made ourselves comfortable under cover in the old yachting club shelter.  It wasn’t long before we were approached by the Port Security who had monitored our progress on camera.  They had decided that as we were in a new construction site area we were a threat to their security although we had not crossed any fence or come across any security warning signs.  A year or so ago I could have walked on for another kilometre, however this is now a new development with restrictions. We returned along the beach & with the tide now almost fully out there was a lot more beach available. We were delighted to have sight of Sting Rays wallowing in the shallow water.

Back at the bird hide the weather had become quite humid with a very welcome cool refreshing southern breeze. I then explained to the group the next part of the hike would take in a section of grassland and then go through an uninteresting section of alien vegetation to arrive at a plastic polluted beach. It was then decided to split up with Philip leading 4 visiting hikers to the Millenium Tower & hike down to the old whaling slipway & along the newly constructed South Pier.  Rose’s group would take the opportunity to visit the recently constructed Zanzibaries Mosque. There certainly is an advantage of having other leaders on a hike so that these sort of decisions can be made.  I would lead the remaining 7 to the southern limits of the swamps

The feedback received from the group was very positive and all enjoyed the morning out.

DAVID TIGHE

KZN Table Mountain Hike

KZN Table Mountain (Pmburg area) HIKE - 27th OCTOBER 2013

 This massive 658m flat-topped mountain dominates the western end of the valley of a thousand hills it is clearly visible from theN3 Highway.  The Zulu name is emKhambathini  (Place of Giraffe Acacia trees).

The meeting place was the local school grounds, where a combination of 31 hikers from Mountain Backpackers, PMB Ramblers & DBN Ramblers clubs parked our vehicles within the securely fenced area of the school grounds with two car guards in attendance. On hand to meet us was Ambrose our guide for the day. Fortunately we did not take the weather forecast seriously, even after experiencing heavy down-pours of rain whilst travelling to our destination. Upon arrival the weather conditions started to clear, and with the promise of good conditions we started off along an easy route to the summit at a reasonably steady pace.

Ambrose was a wealth of information explaining that the people live under an Inkosi or chief who administers and retains the customs and traditions of their cultural group.  Houses and thatched huts some painted in various bright colours with satellite aerials, cattle, goats, and chickens being kept by many families, are a feature of this landscape. Nowadays all is peaceful with tribes living comfortably side by side. The problems today are of a social rather than a political nature, as they were during the troubled late 1980s when faction fights and political intolerance between Inkatha and ANC took place.

Grasslands cover most of the flat topped plateau and support a fascinating and diverse flora.  Growing among the rock outcrops along the edge of the escarpment, protected from wind and fire, are miniature gardens of moss, lichens, succulents and terrestrial orchids. All these are able to survive by obtaining moisture from the regular mists and rain. The dark clefts fall sheer into the valleys below with gorges and overhanging precipice with deep clefts and chasms, which have been carved out by wind and water and are worth further exploration.   An ancient Glacial Pavement was of great interest, as were the sunken forest and a number of large depressions and sinkholes.   A stream which disappears into the ground and then reappears as a waterfall in a shaded moss and fern grotto was of particular interest as the name KOGH 1909 was deeply caved into the rock next to the waterfall. One wonders if this name could be the same white man who built a house in this area and then mysteriously disappeared along with the house that he built. Ambrose said that not even a solitary brick was ever found!

The panoramic spectacular views to the east requires quite an effort to take in the whole scene at once with the Msunduze and Umgeni Rivers making there tortuous way through the valley of a thousand hills to empty into the Indian Ocean at the Blue Lagoon. Whilst the view to the north overlooks the picturesque Nagle Dam which impounds the waters of the Umgeni River and contributes most of Durban’s water supply.   

As we approached our lunch stop, we caught up with the herd of Nguni cattle which had been a dim smudge on the horizon earlier on. These cattle are regarded by the Zulu as very intimate and personal belongings. This magnificent healthy looking herd with their multi-colours and various patterned hides must be the pride of the local Inkosi. In their culture it is considered improper to count cattle, so the umfaan herder knows each of the cows by sight and name. The cattle are named by the colour and pattern of their hides, the shape of the horns also gives rise to some beautiful descriptive names, they can also frequently be named after significant occurrences that have taken place within the community, their names can be regarded as a [walking history].

After a relaxed lunch we headed off in an easterly direction with a splendid picturesque view of Nagle Dam with a background of innumerable hills and valleys in the distance.

Passing  a fenced off section which Ambrose explained was an experimental area where a number of indigenous tree species are being successfully cultivated to form a wind barrier as well as a shade area for the cattle once the trees are fully grown.  The route now climbs over a hill and approaches a rock strewn ridge which at first was comfortably wide. With the dense mist settling in, the ridge narrowed down to about 2 metres wide with deep exposures on either side and then abruptly ends.  As we had now circumnavigated the top of Table Mountain and accomplished our objective, we then turned back and headed through the curtain of mist to connect with the path that would take us back down to the school.

  Duncan and Francois had done an excellent job of leading, organizing as well as arranging security. I personally was impressed and appreciative of Ambrose’s input and information and departed with many pleasant memories from this highly recommended hike.

 

David Tighe  

GIBA GORGE HIKE

GIBA GORGE  Hike on 9th Jan 2011

One would not exaggerate to say that Giba Gorge is one of the most excellent hiking areas in Durban. It doesn’t take much to find oneself outside city life and in a wilderness setting of great  beauty. It was refreshing and exciting to be able to lead a group of 25 enthusiastic, experienced and novice hikers to explore this paradise.  After leaving our vehicles safely parked at Giba Gorge entrance next to the restaurant, we proceeded along the well-used cycle track before turning off at a check point to cross the Giba River. After another 1km the cycle track makes way to a hiking trail and crossing under the N3 toll road bridge, well over 100m above the gorge and enters private property. One is inspired by this impressive concrete construction, and the contrast of speeding vehicles above and the tranquillity of the Gorge below.

The combination of waterfalls, which include the magnificent 80m high McIntosh falls (pictured on the right) and the 30m high Kirkman falls tumbling into the gorge are of great scenic beauty. Recent good rains added to the spectacular picturesque scenery.    

       

The route climbs to the top of the falls and crosses the Umhlatuzana River and then rises to a higher level and enters the Umhlatuzana Rock Shelter (pictured on the right), the history of which stretches back to the Stone Age and is of immense historical value. The Shelter is protected from the elements, faces north and is well screened by vegetation. The rock shelter is 43m long, reaches a depth of 6.5m and the maximum roof height is 17m, and was discovered in 1982 by Dr R R Maud during a geological survey of the proposed N3 toll road. The floor of the shelter was excavated in 1985 to a depth of 2.6m and contained deposits of pottery, stone tools, seeds, beads, shell, bone, ground stone and bone objects. Along with the radiocarbon dates there is proof of human habitation here 70 000/ 100 000 years ago.  Evidence of this is documented in archaeological manuscripts housed in the Natal Museum. The shelter was also used by the McIntosh family as an emergency safe haven in times of unrest.

 Apart from the prolific bird life the other unique feature in this environment is the Potter Ruby footed giant black millipede (shongololo) endemic to this area. 

After reaching the highest point, by way of a safely constructed chain ladder the route descends back to the base of McIntosh falls and picks up a well maintained cycle track. As the clouds had dispersed, the welcome ramble through the tall leafy trees back to the restaurant went by in a flash.                                                                                                                          

To arrange this hike I met with Colleen and Rick Witten The owners of Edgecliff  Estate (McIntosh Falls as well as Kirkman Falls are on this property) they have contributed immeasurably to the conservation of this environment and have wonderful and exciting plans for the future which include sustainable management with eradicating of alien vegetation, and establishing  erosion controlled hiking tracks and the reintroduction of Rock Hyrex {Dassies] All these projects are quite a challenge.                                                                                 

When Durban wants to brag about their great hiking trails, this 12km approx. 5 hour hike, which is not strenuous must rate as one on top of the list.   David Tighe

Hike from Osgodsby to Joseph Baynes Cottage, Richmond area - 13 March 2011

OSGODSBY HIKE – RICHMOND/BAYNESFIELD ESTATE  13^TH March 2011

 Whilst investigating the possibility of a three day hike from Baynesfield to Byrne, I came across the farm named Osgodsby which immediately caught my attention, and I had to investigate further.         I was not disappointed, as not only was the farmer Campbell McKenzie extremely co-operative and enthusiastic as he had spent considerable time and effort in opening trails on his farm, and these trails fitted perfectly into my plan. So with the help of Dave Herselman we set off on a number of recce hikes, which proved successful in opening up a day hike to Joseph Baynes old cottage, which will eventually become the first overnight stop on a future planned three day hike. 

The Mount Gilboa hike at Karkloof is a good comparison to this 12.5 kilometre hike, which starts at Campbell McKenzie’s farm “Osgodsby” near Richmond. The gentle amble along a level farm road for about 1km certainly does not prepare one for the steep grade ahead. We would gain approx. 400m in height over the next +- 4km.    For those who don’t hike regularly or are unfit this would be a strenuous challenge.                                                                                                                                           

After entering the cool canopy of the forest along the waterfall trail we were rewarded by the impressive 30m high Mkuzane Falls.  The route then picks up the yellowwood trail and contours to a higher level arriving at a stand of very old magnificent yellowwood trees. We stopped for a well-deserved water break. The park-like appearance and the huge size of these trees was indescribably beautiful.   Exploitation of yellowwoods began in the late 1800s and they were  felled for use of floors and ceilings. However this stand was saved after a tragic personal family hunting accident.  Roads had been constructed, the saw pits had been dug and all was ready for the extraction of this stand and because of this hunting accident the operation was abandoned.

The trail elevates further passing through a recently cut dense forest section into open grasslands and up to Lewis dam. The last uphill along a fire break to the Langa trig beacon at 1406m above sea level seems never ending. The view from this point overlooks the Baynesfield estate and is stunning with the Baynesfield dam and the Mbangweni dam far below. As far as the eye can see the  orchards, fields, and pasture of the estate stretch off into the distance. .   

We made our way down to the cottage, which was our objective, the wind had picked up and had become quite a gale; it was a relief to get to the protection of the cottage on the lee side out of the wind, where we settled down to a leisurely lunch. The cottage is well constructed, the walls are solid natural stone, and a corrugated tin roof has replaced the original thatch. With a bit of a clean-up this will be the perfect overnight stopover    

 As the strong wind had dropped and time was catching up, and with renewed vigour (for some of us anyway) we strolled off along the plantation contour road back to the Lewis dam. Our route now picked up the Mageu trail which is all downhill. Our pace increased as we descended back through the plantation and in no time at all we arrived back at the farmhouse to the welcome barking of the farm dogs.

Campbell McKenzie’s ancestors arrived with the Byrne settlers, I therefore asked him to give a talk on the history of the family and farm before we started our hike. He certainly kept us entertained with the story of how the family had arrived at Port Natal, and the dramatic shipwreck which the ill-fated ship The Minerva suffered at the foot of the Bluff on the night of 4^th July 1850.The valuable cargo and all the passengers’ belongings were lost as the ship quickly broke up on the rocks.            All 300 passengers had got off safely and Campbell’s great grandfather was born on the beach. The only casualty was a seaman off the ship Henrietta who tried to render assistance and was drowned. The positive fact to emerge from this tragedy was that the colonists were incredibly supportive; helping their distressed countrymen in every way, even arranging transport to Byrne to start their new life. However upon arrival at Byrne the McKenzie’s found that they had been allocated a rocky hilltop which was unsuitable for farming. They must have explored further and eventually found the forest-clad slopes and grass-covered hills with streams running through the valley to join the Illovo River on its way to the sea.  They named it Osgodsby meaning  “Home” after a hamlet in York England.  The name is of Norse origin dating back to the Viking times.                                                                                                 

This had been an enjoyable hike, made possible by Jenny Rooks from Ramblers Club who went about co-ordinating and getting together the twenty enthusiastic hikers from four hiking clubs.  We can look forward to further hikes where one can get away from it all and walk amongst a paradise of yellowwood trees and contemplate the simple beauty of nature.

Thanks to Dave Herselman who co-lead,  Max who lead from the back, Jenny,  Rose, Frankie, Duncan, Linda, Colin, Jon, Margie, Gary, Dennis, Richard, Moira, Lee-Ann, Adrian, Colin, Christy, Shara & Mike 

DAVID TIGHE